Most modellers have an extensive tool kit, a tool for every eventuality. But when first starting a scalpel or a...
Valid to UK only - excludes oversized items
Most modellers have an extensive tool kit, a tool for every eventuality. But when first starting a scalpel or a...
Acetate is a term used in modelling to describe many types of plastic film or sheets and is so called because it's...
Glue is a brush killer, so when using a brush to apply glue, you should always use a brush that you don't care too...
There are several options for securing plastic or card model buildings to a baseboard: Using a strong adhesive such...
To understand what a DCC decoder does, we must first take a look at how DC and DCC work.DC stands for Direct...
Every toolbox has a can of WD-40 in it to rid the world of squeaks and loosen any stubborn nuts and bolts, so the temptation when your model locomotive develops a squeak or starts to run a little rough is to grab the can and get to work. This however would be ill-advised.
There are two main reasons why WD-40 would not be the best tool for the job. Firstly, it's too thick, WD40 is designed for tackling rusty hinges and other heavy-duty tasks, the oil is not suitable for the delicate cogs and shafts within your engine and the chances are it will not penetrate the smaller nooks and crannies that the oil needs to reach.
The second reason why WD-40 is not suitable, is that it's dispensed using a pressurised can spraying thousands of droplets of oil at once. Not forgetting that a model's motor only requires a single drop of oil in specific places, excess oil will get everywhere contaminating and perishing delicate plastics, and even worse, the oil could find its way onto the motor's windings which will fail to perform when covered in a gloopy oil.
As good as WD-40 is, it's probably best to use a specialised oil and applicator when it comes to your pride and joy.
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